Cuba's Unrelenting Revolutionary Spirit - Day 4 -Ode to Castro and Climbing the Racial Mountain5/27/2017 Before, I began discussing my day 4 experience in Cuba, let me answer one of the most frequently asked questions from my 30 and over friends, No I did not see Tupac while I was there lol. But I admit, I did not see most of the island so hold out hope. Today may have been my most important day in Cuba, because it was the day I really began to understand the revolutionary spirit of the people and Castro’s role in shaping it. Long vilified in the United States, I came to really understanding why he is so beloved in his country. My education on Castro appropriately occurred at the University of Habana. Arriving at the University of Habana, there are these long stairs leading into the main campus and you get the sense that you are walking onto Mount Olympus or Mount Sinai or Mount Kilimanjaro – some ancient high place of knowledge. We climbed the stairs and were met at the top the by a guide from the University of Habana. We were welcomed by the beautiful space with old buildings with Cuban, Spanish and Roman architecture and green vegetation all over. It was striking. When I was in Cuba, there was just symbolism everywhere and every place that I entered. The mix of Cuban nature and urban environments constantly gave me the sense that I was coming out of the dark into the light. There was just an interesting feeling in the air. It was the sensation of activity. Where we were was once the headquarters for the revolution militia and spirit and history can still be felt which emphasizes that the revolution was ideological and much more than it was physical. As a matter of fact, Cuban social thinkers, particularly Jose Marti, said as much. Touring the university, we saw an animal museum (and this collection dates back to 1800s), impressive sculptures, and rooms of impressive scale. I am forever reminded of how recent most structures are in the United States when I travel out the country. The guide led us into this big room that looked like a courtroom with a large gallery. There were works of art and painting that interrupted the largely wooden décor. As we sat down, the guide opened the floor for questions. It started out pretty general but got real, real quick. Someone asked about how Cubans felt about Castro. The guide briefly paused and you could see this public face melt away. Instead of joking and generically discussing the question, he passionately began to discuss why people loved Castro. A quick side note: Everywhere that I traveled, in tourist situations, employees seem to always present this frontstage behavior that is only for guests. You do not get a sense of who they are because you have not earned their trust. No matter how much money that you spend, you don’t get close. You cannot, because as an outsider you are temporary and often ignorant and disrespectful to that culture. I appreciated the genuineness. With passion, our guide described life before the revolution. Before the revolution, there was criminal corruption, severe racial and gender oppression, people were killed, starved and exploited. The government regime was totalitarian and most of the people lived under subjugation. There was high illiteracy, prostitution, and crime Once Castro took power, his group overnight transformed the country. They outlawed racial and gender discrimination. I heard a funny story about at the end of the revolution soldiers asking women to wash their uniforms and the women turning to Castro and saying we didn’t fight a revolution to continue to wash. Castro looked at them and told the soldiers to give the women your guns. Castro sent out 100,000 people to educate the population, particular women, who at the time only consisted of 3% of the overall number of college graduates. The government shifted and now nearly 50% of women are in decision-making positions. In a later column, I will discuss the status of women more. Castro made sure people were housed, educated and fed. It created a communal sense for the people and they care for and about each other. That spirit still exists. For example, people who suffer from HIV/AIDS are taken care of by the government. The medication and health care is free. In general, all Cubans are housed and given jobs. Castro and his regime transformed a country and instantly shifted the society into a more equal one. It’s the kind of thing that is only wishful thinking in the United States. The conversation was not about if Castro or Cuban society were/are perfect, it was more about acknowledging and celebrating a life and people who care about each other. There are not statues or buildings named after Castro; he didn’t want that. He believed that his spirit, the spirit of Cuba, lived within all Cubans. Of course there I nuance to this. Despite these efforts, it doesn’t mean that all social problems were eliminated. Things that took centuries have a tail. Even if the body is killed, the effects linger. I understand this really well as I listen to a lecture on race. The scholar started by discussing Cuba’s legacy of genocide and slavery. Like the United States, it is a complicated, tragic history of genocide and exploitation. As he began, I felt a dichotomous sensation of both sadness and proud. I thought about the tragedy and nearly wept. But I also thought about the proud I feel being Black and feeling an instant genuine human connection to minorities all over the globe. To those who do not experience it, it’s hard to explain. The idea of kinship spread across the world, challenges mere notions of biology as family. The kinship I felt among Afro Cuban was special and with each of call “Black Power” and fist that was raised I felt more and more at home. Understanding race in Cuba starts with understanding how the Spanish arrived on the island and nearly eliminated the indigenous population, the Taino. It’s further complicated by the fact that even Carlos Manuel De Cespedes, whom many consider the father of the Cuban revolution, was a slaveholder and only freed his slaves to fight the Spanish. Antonio Maceo, Afro Cuban revolutionary, whose impact many consider on par with Castro, often talked about racism in Cuba. There are three racial categories in Cuba: White, Mulatto, and Afro Cuban. The last category are considered and often referred to as Black. It’s interesting how Black has become the global diasporic term for the experiences of darker skin people. There is also a small indigenous population. Blacks still face tremendous struggles in Cuba and many refer to Cuba as having a “Black Problem.” This expression is rooted in racial stereotypes and racial ideas that supported white supremacy. At the same time, it also undermines legitimate concerns, discrimination and social problems associated with race. The scholar made a point to say if 100 Afro Cubans start university, only 10 finish. Some other numbers said only 4% graduate from college. Of course, this limits options for the types of jobs and perpetuates workplace segregation. Part of the reason is alienation that many feel in the university setting that doesn't reflect their history or understand their struggle. Something people of color in the United States know too well. The job types matter, because even though everyone makes the same salary, certain jobs, particularly those associated with tourism, get tips which can greatly increase one’s income. For instance, I met a doctor-turned-tour guide who went from making 30 CUC (Cuban Convertible Pesos) a month as a doctor, to being able to save 5000 CUC in six months. Ordinarily, these jobs often go to White and mulatto Cubans. Income and Wealth inequality can be connected to the Cubans who fled during the revolution. According to the lecturer, 97% of Cubans who fled considered themselves White. This is important for several reasons. First, most private are funded from outsiders, either spouses from other countries and families. Since most Cubans that left are White, they send money to white family in Cuba. They are able to start businesses, plan trips, buy more things, have more access, etc. There are two major takeaways from the day: 1) Cuba’s love for Castro is essentially a love for the equality for all people. The communal nature of society exudes a continually revolutionary spirit; 2) Racism continues to thrive worldwide and destroying it will not only take a revolution but also and evolution. The race scholar believe that love was the most important thing to conquer it. I tend to believe him because it is truly the love for equality, social justice, and equal access that facilitates change.
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As the third day began, we arrived at the former villa of Jose Marti, one of Cuban’s most influential thinkers. (check out http://www.josemarti.cu/). It was an old alabaster structure with a slightly pinkish hue. It was somewhat hidden behind lush palm trees and as I split the palm trees it almost fell like I was walking into the past. It was an interesting mix of tropical, urban and secluded. There was an Afro Cuban with beautiful dark skin that grabbed my hand warmly and said “Welcome”. There is an affection and for the third straight day I wonder about the solidarity that I feel. I pulled the tour guide to the side and she says that Habana and Cuba are mostly Afro Cuban. The construction of race is different in Cuba though. There are 3 primary races: White, Mulatto and Afro Cuban. There is a pride among all people but the connection across the African Diaspora is undeniable. It is also suggest that there is a shared experience with race. Walking into the villa you get a sense of scale and it puts a material feel on the social class difference that existed before the revolution. I also think about how space, physical space, can encourage or discourage thought. The building itself bred an intellectual inquiry. The lecture and the group is pretty invested as the lecturer, a young Afro Cuban woman, explains Marti travels around the world and teachings, which was fascinating. She gave a particularly engaging of earthquake in Charleston in 1886. Marti’s description of the chaos of the phenomena served as a reminder that the power of nature is above all and serves of reminder who humans are at their essence beyond the social problems. The aftermath of the tragedy saw all people eating, drinking and living together as equals. The group was enthralled as the discussion of the climax with a Marti recounting the birth during the earthquake. Birth itself being another powerful event of nature, and serving as a dichotomy of beauty and destruction and life and death. (check out the essay here http://www.josemarti.cu/publicacion/el-terremoto-de-charleston/). Once this lecture concluded, we took a break before the next one started. There were drinks and cookies available and most walked but I ran (Only because I was thirsty lol) to the refreshments. As I bit down on that small delicious cookie, I felt relaxed and refreshed from the experience. Almost outside of time. As the economy lecture starts we learn that education, including college, housing, and health care are free but regulated by the government. Cuba has a highly educated population with the majority having at least a Bachelor’s degree. It’s funny, because usually when people speak in terms Cuba, it is with the context of a “developing” or “third world,” which generally are ethnocentric and prejudicial points of view anywhere, but it shows how little people know about Cuba and its people. There is also food rations cards for all citizens. These ration cards are connected to their houses. (This will become important in later discussions) This means that people are essentially debt which is sounds like heaven about now. Hard to imagine living debt free in the United States. Debt is the reason, I am scared to answer calls from numbers I don’t recognize anymore (lol). . Up until recently, the government owned 100% of the homes and still owns the overwhelming majority of homes in the country. There is no homelessness in Cuba. This is partly due to the housing system that is set up where people to stay in their family homes their entire lives. Even if they have families, their families move in. This means a house could possibly have 4 or 5 families including siblings and their parents. Can you imagine living with your siblings and parents basically your entire life? I mean my mother couldn’t wait until I was 18 (Just joking mama). I believe this helps nurture the communal perspective of people in the country. There are apartments and a system where one can request a house as well, but in terms of housing there is a lack of choice and space. The lecture on the economy, really enlightened the group on the structure of Cuban life and how much Cuba is changing as well as how the changes are effecting Cuba. In preparing to travel to Cuba, I was made aware that there are 2 different currencies in Cuba: the stronger and recent Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) and the Cuban Peso (CUP). Part of the economic issues in Cuba are linked to the fact that there is no universal agreement on the exchange rate on the currency. In major economic centers, 1 CUC equals 25 CUP. In others, particularly agriculture fields, 1 CUC equals 7 CUP. There are even places were 1 CUC equals 1 CUP. All government employers get paid the same regardless of degree level or job. Since education and healthcare are regulated by the government, all the professions including doctors and professors are government employees and make 30 CUCs a month just like other professions such as drivers and cashiers. Even with ration cards this is not enough and most Cubans have 2 or 3 jobs. We heard stories of college professors working as clowns and doctors moonlighting as doorpersons at tourist hotels. In Cuba, someone brings a doctor home and their family may sigh, “You will be broke forever.” Tourism is the number one industry and many professionals are leaving traditional professions and going into tourism. Though tour guides are government employees, the tips made from leading tours can make it a relatively lucrative career. This is having a tremendous effect on whether or not some Cubans go to college, as tourism is a lucrative and viable option once they finish high school. Cuba’s ability to survive is really attributed to the adaptation of its people. When I looked around Habana ad am amazed that despite what happen to its people (read embargo and Special period), they have thrived and remained true to their vision. What they have, is shared among the people and the refused revert back. It is admirable. The lecture emphasized that there are new fiscal laws to help stabilize the economy. This includes unifying the currencies and exchange, and the establishment of non-state property. She also openly questioned the government’s positions on some of the proposed economic changes. This stood out because in the United States we also hear about how scared people in Cuba are to discuss politics or the government. Image of the book 1984 are fed into our psyche as the big bad government throws people in the dungeon lol. Literally every lecture in Cuba that we attended, they questioned some governmental policies. I was not too surprised because that is what academia should foster at its roots. No matter how much you love a place, you are constantly thinking about how to make it better. Cuba’s a country that is rapidly changing. New laws proposed will stipulate that the president must be 62 years of age or younger and cannot serve longer than five years. There are new economic and social systems on the horizon for the people there. In terms of the people, they are rapidly shifting. There is, though, a concern about the role that capitalism and the new economics plays out, everyone understand that change is inevitable. One thing is for certain: Cuba will look very different over the next 20 years. |
Myron Strong
professor. learner. traveler. emerging artist Archives
November 2018
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