I haven't visited a lot of touristy sites while I been here in London, but today I decided to visit the National Science Museum. It is a National Bank Holiday in the UK (a holiday no one here seems to know what it is but love the day off lol), so many businesses are closed. I started my college career as a chemist before deciding on a social science. The analytical way in which science views reality has always appealed to me. Sociology is all about perception and studying other fields helps my sociological knowledge grow. The National Science Museum is in an area with other museums and to get there, you must walk through a red brick tunnel. I felt little like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz as i skipped my way through it and sang "We off to see to the wizard, the wonderful wizard of OZ" (lol). The National Science Museum was what you expect. It had free admissions like most of the museums that I have visited here. It was beautiful, open and airy. There is an inviting feeling that encourages you to take your time and enjoy the museum. The exhibits were nicely organized, but everything seemed small to me. That has been quite a culture shock since I arrived. Everything is small. The cars, apartments, windows, appliances, bathrooms, etc. The physical and symbolic space is significantly smaller than in the United States and I often feel like a bull in a China shop lol. The most interesting thing about museum is the amount of merchandise associated with the museum. Ever since I read Enchanting A Disenchanted World by George Ritzer, I find myself overly concerned with catherdrals of consumption. These places are focused on selling goods and are designed to feel enchanting. They encourage consumption. The museum felt like that to me. Even in a building with with great wonders, I thought the the greatest wonder was how with eating in restaurants and shopping in the gift shop was just as important part of the experience. There's is museum related items but also stuff like stars figurines, crystal growing kits, binoculars, bouncing balls, and other miscellaneous things not necessarily associated with the museum. Not that I necessarily think this is wrong, but I have become more aware of the way consumption plays in the museums everyday interaction.
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I have never had Indian food, so today was to be a new adventure on many levels. I have mentioned before that each area has its own heart beat. I met these two sociologists from New York, one was the professor from Columbia, whose lecture I had attended on inequalities in education in the UK and US and the other was his partner who had worked both in academia and in the public sector policy making. The restaurant was in west London. I haven't been to west London, but I did know it's the theater district of the city. The area was the busiest I have seen in London. There were endless crowd of people in all directions. The scene painted by conversations in multiple languages, cigarette smoke, the roar of fancy cars, and people ducking in and out of doors. There are restaurants, theaters, historic national landmarks, like Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery, and statues of English heroes sprinkled over the area. The business section of the city looms in the distant. It feels big and alive and looking at distance it seems like its expanding. Soaking it all in, I thought of Herman Melville's Moby Dick. There’s an imperialist edge to this area of the city. It flaunts its money, power, influence. It’s a touristy, distinctly upper class area, and filled with what’s considered high culture (read theater). There’s an air of entitlement and privilege to the people. I saw them bump into others with no pleasantries, and ignored those who needed help. On the stairs leading out of the station, there was an elderly woman struggling with a bag. No one stop to help. They pushed past her slightly bumping shoulders. Eventually, I helped her, but was the only one who attempted. uEach part looks identical. Around every corner, there are theaters , TGIFridays, Five Guys burgers, and Angus Steakhouses. The cycle of business repeats every few blocks and it paints a future of sameness. I see people experiencing homelessness everywhere. It is by far the most that I have seen. They provide a stark contrast to the area and provide a visual divide between rich and poor; have and have nots; living a future and living to survive. These people were largely ignored and stepped over. They merely served as the backdrop for social inequality. Because of their position in society they also serve as a symbolic Ismael. Telling a story, of a London, that wants to create a upper and middle class. I felt more disconnected to this section more than any of the others. It feels London is growing and changing. Like Captain Ahab, the West End represents dominance and imperialism. This is what London wants to be. The white whale represents the poor and traditional ethnic minority areas that are using the spear of gentrified. Once I decided to come to London, I wanted to find a way to share my experience with people. I thought about using Snapchat but for the life of me I could I not figure it out. I remember some of my students in my women studies course during the fall semester laughing at me as they attempted to show me. Eventually, I decided on a blog. This decision was for two reasons. The first reason was it was a way to record and reflect on my experiences in the UK. The second was so that people could experience it with me.
But this decision has not been an easy one, because I am rather sleep deprived. My body refuses to fully adjust to London time. I am looking a bit like a zombie with a backpack on. Today, I sat in my favorite fish and chips shop and decided to people watch. My plan was to also draw for a couple hours. People came in and out ordering various things, like fish and chips. There is a simple joy in looking and appreciating people. Their different walks, accents, and food taste, are a celebration of their uniqueness. This ended up being a challenge, because I frequently dozed off (lol). My head slowly drifting down only to spring back. It was quite a spectacle. I drifted in and out of consciousness. One moment I would be typing, drawing or observing, and in the next moment, I would wake up in seemingly a different world. Surrounded by a different cast of character and greeted by different smells. The people came in and out the shop, and am sure pointed and laughed. Matter of fact, I woke up at one point with everyone in there looking at me (lol). So this is blog about how hard it is to do blogs (lol). But also about the role of the traveler both figuratively and metaphorically. My travels back and forth between dreams did not help me understand ideas of race and gender in the UK but did remind me of a quote by Ibn Battuta. “Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” Maybe this dreamy day will make me more observant and a better storyteller. Let's hope anyway (lol). A couple days ago at lunch, one of my friends, who is from New Jersey, but studying in London, made an interesting statement. She said that London is a city of 200 smaller cities. I have been thinking about this over the last couple days. It is a lot to take in because my life I grew up in a small town Arkansas (a state in the southern part of United States). It was segregated at the time (this was 1980s and 1990s). My complete existence in my town was with southern Blacks many of whom I was related to. We shared a homogenous experience in not all but many respects.
These small cities in London create a heterogeneous experience that changes from stop to stop. The train serving as a symbolic gateway to these new experiences. Today, I met friend who is from London, that I met in Morocco last summer at the Old Street Station. Old Street station was the first station that shops and eateries in it. It looked more like a mini mall than. I see a stand for Louisiana chili and think, “really”. Someone was speaking Spanish and walked to the Columbian food stand. The areas are wondrously heterogeneous in structural but there is a Leaving the tunnel to the street by glass skyscrapers (the first I have seen in London) and beautifully designed buildings. The street intersections are uniquely designed and gave me a sense like was sort of in a Rubix cube (lol). My friend is young Black doctor and we go to a café, where I have the weirdest looking and tasting orange juice in my life (lol). It was in a wine glass, with an orangish, pink color and a white foamy top (like a root beer lol). I asked the worker if it was orange juice and non-alcoholic, he said yes but can I really be sure. I don’t drink alcohol, but after I drank that, I did find myself staggering, screaming at buildings and saying I love you to strangers lol (I am just kidding). Areas of the cities may feel different. We began to talk about my time here and the observations that I have made. He asked, “so how does race here compare to here to the US.” I lean back in my chair, pause and say that’s a really complex question. I could see people becoming squirmy the way a child does when they are to leave or need to use bathroom. He noticed it as well and casually motioned to me. I then said generally speaking and from my observation the culture around the discussion of race, gender and other social issues are conservative. (A recent article agrees). Discussing race here is a little like the rules of the movie Fight Club. In the movie, Edward Norton famously tells his group. "The first rule is we don't talk about fight club." Well, here in most areas it seems to be, The first rule is you don’t talk race. The second rule is you don’t talk about gender. It’s hard for me to fully describe this general sentiment (maybe by the end of the trip I will be able) in general discussion around race and gender. Its nuanced and complicated but ever present. As we continued, there is an uneasy tension around us. It is like a bubble slowly getting bigger. I think, "typical." In London, the areas change, the stations, buildings, and landmarks in each area often are different and unique but the core cultural understandings of life seem stay the same. Its Ignore and hope it goes away. But of course all that does is end up only continuing a system of structural inequality. The call of Brixton has loomed large ever since I arrived in London. Since my second day here, nearly every scholar I have met has said, "Go to Brixton." I have heard this so much, that Brixton seemed to call to me like the song of the siren. Today, I wanted to attend a lecture by sociologist Heidi Mirza on whether education can be use used to empower Black, Muslim, and migrant young women. The event was in Brixton , so attending meant that I must give in to the call. Stepping out of .the train station, the call greeted me with the syncopated beats played on a snare drum and someone singing. “Don’t trust no blue eyed Jesus, He will always, lead you wrong Don’t know White Jesus He aint helping no Black people.” The rhythm of Brixton is different than any other part of the city that I have visited. The song is a fitting anthem to heart of the section. It is political, resilient, and defiant and acts as a sort of like theme music to bustling with Black and Brown people that you see on the streets. Catching the bus, pushing their children there’s an ebb and flow. It’s the first section of the city, minorities, particularly Blacks, greatly out-numbered Whites. The buildings look different and gives off a different character My head turns back and forth as I slowly walk toward m the lecture. It is alive with music and people. Some buildings are tagged with graffiti and this visual continues the struggle of the area. We are watching #Save Brixton; Our struggle may be long, But victory is a must. I’m in awe and it reminds of the struggle in Baltimore. There’s a Pan-African feel and obvious connection between the history and struggle both in the US and in the UK. There is a street market with tables full of colors selling various products. Reggae music is blasting as Afro Caribbean, Nigerians, Turkish, Indian and various people from Middle Eastern countries, ask to sell me incenses, necklaces, trinkets and goods. I walk slowly through and it reminded of the souks in Marrakesh, Morocco or Cairo, Egypt. Briefly, I feel like I am in a different country. There are Bob Marley pictures everywhere and serves as a symbol of cultural relativism and proud. . As I approached the area for the lecture, I notice that it is in a housing complex called Angels Delight. There are beige buildings and a playground area with kids playing soccer. I think, "that looks cool, we should be doing that Maryland." The lecture is in a small community center room. There are not many people as the lecture begins. But as the professor begins her talk by proclaiming the education is biased and unfair to Blacks and Black women, people begin to come. The statement serves as its own song of a siren. People are drawn to the call because it reflects both their frustration and desire for social justice. The professor described her experiences coming from Trinidad and being discriminated in the Brixton school system. They identified with her pain and frustration as she recalled it. They also celebrated her triumph as she discussed the book that she wrote about the school based off of her dissertation. The lecture may have dealt with can the British education system empower Black, Muslim women, but it quickly became a forum on how to improve the community. Angel Delight is neither angelic or delightful, and though not overly violent, it is a trap of limitations and perpetuation. As they talk, I thought of Langston Hughes poem Harlem and its iconic first line, What happens to a dream deferred? But for real, what does happen? People vented their frustration and their concerns (which sounded eerily similar to those in the US). They feel trapped and spent a great deal of time expressing that the children would be better if they could see other areas of city, country and world. They are literally trapped in Brixton and there are no counter narratives presented to make them think there is more to life. What happens to a dream deferred? Understanding why this is, I only had to look to the only White man (who I think helped plan the event) attending, who after hearing all this, asked the speaker if she could say something positive, to which she let out a hardy laugh (as did I). But this was just one side to my visit to Brixton. Walking back to the train station, I evidently walked through a wormhole and fell into the Twilight zone. I was in a different city. I was puzzled. The shopping market was completely clear, businesses that were open in the day were closed and new businesses were open. There were no brown faces out on the streets. I only saw whites. The street drumming and reggae music was replaced by serene silent of gentrification. The brown layer figuratively and literally had been pulled off of Brixton. It reminded me of when I was child playing outside moving logs. Logs exist in a seemingly concrete reality, but when you move them and looked under there was always another often more active world that’s affecting the log in ways you could not always see. The duality of Brixton, makes describing it in singular terms nearly impossible. It is Jekyll and Hyde. And in on one hand, it has two opposite personas that constitute a single place. On the other hand, it is one place represented by two personalities and understanding the interrelationship between the two, helps us comprehend Brixton’s identity. It also helps us understand the past, present and future dreams of the minorities in that area. But for real, what does happen to a dream deferred? Every great journey, adventure, and even theory starts with one or many stories. Stories built imagination, inspire, make you believe in the impossible, and lead us down the path of our lives. The last 10 days in London, I. have been writing about my experiences, but there is so much happening, I can only overview or give a snapshot of my experience. So in this blog, I will share some of my stories that have not previously mentioned. Each unique and important to building my journey .
There have been funny stories. Story 1 My first time riding the train, I step unto it full of confidence (and swag lol). Gripping my blue backpack like its my junior year in high school, I cooling stood. As the train started, I felt the power of the engine and slightly turn my feet to compensate. However, I grossly underestimated the power of the engine and went flying landing on a very nice woman (I know that because she didn't beat me up and was very understanding). People around me laughed slightly and I am certain that they were thinking damn Americans. Story 2 Another time, while in a grocery store there was a young girl, about three years old, who was blocking the entrance to the store. As I approached the door and amid her mum (see I am becoming more British everyday) calling for her, she stepped in front of me. As attempted to step around, she moved as well. She smiled and laughed only the way children can. I smiled too and thought of my two older sons when were younger and infant son now. Her sheer light and joy touched me as her mum grabbed her hand and walked her out. She looked back still smiling and laughing. Story 3 The sight of me trying to explain why I am in the UK is quite comical. People will ask if I am in the UK on holiday. I will say, "I am here studying race and gender." They stare at me kind of confused. And the more i try to explain, the worse I sound. I end up saying something like, race and gender are bad. And i want to make the world a better place with rainbows and unicorns. Story 4 On my second day in the UK, I was walking, with food, to the place I am staying around 10 pm. I hear someone behind walking behind me and turn around. It was woman, who said, "i'm just following the food." I laughed and we begin to walk together. She had the hiccups and everytime she spoke she hiccupped. How (hiccup) are you (hiccup)? she said. I laughed and just as I did, I tripped and some of my food got on my shirt. We both laughed and continued our walked until she reached her house ( a couple doors down from where I am staying). There are also stories that related to my studies. Story 1 After the first lecture, I talked to Eric Fassan and I asked him, about the analysis of gender in context of race in France. I mentioned that race in the United States is usually seen through a masculine, patriarchal lens. He said serious academic analysis of race did not begin until 1980s. He also stated that gender is at the center of race discussion because it began by examining the lives of ethnic and racial minorities women. Story 2 I talked a Russian sociologist, trained in Germany, who told me that the the biggest race problem in Russian was directed at Turkish people in the country. She said that the call the people coming down from the Caucasus mountains, Black people (mind blown). That fact alone made the trip worth it. Story 3 I talked to an education scholar that the beauty and stripper culture has an effect on gender. She discussed how gender is being influence by the transport of gender norms from the United States. Story 4 On the train from Liverpool, I sat in a seat across from a British doctor born in Nigeria. We stuck up conversation and mostly discuss gender in the UK in comparison gender in Africa. He wondered why the European understanding of women was so limited. With a kind of sadness on his face he wondered why they couldn't see them as having equal power and ability. He also told a story of being shocked, an knowing it was unfair, that he made more than his female colleagues. These few stories help frame my experiences. While each story may be a force by itself, collectively they create the journey. While I may have a goal, not absorbing and embracing each of these makes it impossible to reach. Quantum mechanics states that at the quantum level sub atomic particles can exist in more than one place at a time. Stories are like that. Its one idea, event, issue, or experience expressed from many different social locations. Each painting a picture and laying a brick on the road to understanding. An American Sociologist in London Day 8- The Sankofa Experience at the International Slave Museum5/24/2016 When I left the United States, the number one place that I wanted to visit was the International Slave Museum. Since its opening I wanted to visit but If you would have asked me why, I don't if I could have given a definitive answer. I would have probably said "to see our history" or " to see a materialized version of colonization." Truth is I wasn't sure because it was a combination of many reasons. Today , I went to Liverpool in order to visit the museum. I didn't know what to expect from the city. Since I arrived in London, i have continually heard about the North. Its the North this, the North that. It is like being caught in a bad Game of Thrones episode lol. Entering the city, I was stunned by the architecture. Its an eclectic mixture historic and modern. There are grand, centuries old buildings with fast food restaurants like Burger King on the bottom floor. Its a symbolic of a city trying to move past atrocities by both owning up to its history and embracing the future. The accent of the people are very different and harder for me to understand. They are friendly and genuine much like the people from the Southern part of the United States. The city was only an appetizer. As I approached the museum there was a mini carnival with a merry-go-round and snack vendors outside. I began to think, "I cant be-." Then i stopped and thought, "this is probably exactly what it looked like." Walking the docks to get to the museum was eerie and I couldn't help but winch as I breathed the heavy air. I was cautiously skeptical after going to the the London exhibit at the docklands. I was hoping for more than some pacifying attempt. I walked into the museum and say "whoa." It was beautiful and inviting. As you walk in, quotes on the wall welcome you. I felt a warmth that you rarely feel going through the museum. I can only image that it was the spiritual energy in the objects or ideas. Or maybe the warm feeling was generated from seeing the a massive collection. There are artifacts, paints and interactive displays throughout. As I traveled through the museum, I amazed at the diversity of topics covered, It has artifacts of enslaved but also it with by exploring the ways in which Africa changed the culture through a variety of ways including through language and cooking. It gives the Africans agency and complicates the dominant narrative. I was fully engaged but I kept expecting a let down. Discussion of slavery in schools are treated as a dental visits. (people closing their eyes and trying to just get through it lol). The culture does want to think about it. There's a limitation in how the culture neglects this part of the past because not only does it isolates us as a culture but and as individuals The value of the museum is that it provides a visual lecture, and its hard not to be impressed as you walk through as you start your journey in the past and continues the story. The museum is language. It's a full lecture and in that way, its a valuable piece of the culture. Its deals not only with slavery was but how does it affects contemporary racism and poverty. Focusing on colonial legacies which can be seen in street names and businesses. It asked difficult questions about the future based on this past. Most importantly, it provides a celebration of the people and their descendants, who despite it all persevered. This point is important. I remember my first time going to Egypt. Visiting the historical sites and experiencing time and places, made me understand that there is a limitation to only thinking of your ancestors as slaves. This limits your potential and places boundaries on your possibilities. Its a cage, The museum in that way is freedom and possibility. Its impressive and the polar opposite to the British Museum, which in many ways is celebration of colonization. No one leaves there not moved. It is amazing. You learn how the past, influence on the present and how to proceed to the future. It is a Sankofa experience and one that by itself was worth the trip to the United Kingdom. City of Liverpool International Slave Museum
Since I have arrived in London, I have not slept at night. At first I thought it was because of jet lag (or that I am a vampire lol) but maybe it’s because each day of this journey requires tons of reflection. It’s sensory overload like walking into my grandmother’s kitchen at New Years as a kid - the greens, meat, cornbread, cabbage, sweet potato pie would overwhelm me (I am hungry now lol). London is grandmother’s kitchen.
Though I slept last night, I also took a nap. From that nap I woke up thinking "Birkbeck or bust." It was a way of psyching myself out, because I was still sleepy lol. I was attending Birkbeck College to listen to lecture a scholar from Columbia University was giving on the systematic inequalities within the United Kingdom and US higher education systems. At the end of the train ride, the lift to the top floor was broken so the PA announced that we had to take the stairs. I looked at the stairs and it said use only in emergencies, and I thought,“that’s a bad sign”. 175 steps and 15 stories later and I was stumbling out of there like the walking dead lol. Felt like I had climbed Machu Picchu. As I walked out the station, I was greeted by an Indian guy walking up to me trying to fist pound me saying “wassup brother!” He started saying, “Trump is for the brothers in the hood” along with some other nonsense. He mentioned Jimmy Hendrix, Muhammad Ali, Tupac, Prince, and Michael Jackson saying he knew about the brothers in the hood. I said, “What about Trump’s racism towards minority groups?” He then said, “oh those are just Mexicans.” (Insert sad face here). It was quite comical, but his ignorance does remind of how global racial stereotypes are. Its dangerous the messages that are being transported. Like the influence of the stripper culture in constructing gender; racism has began to rejuvenate a highly visible and expressed xenophobic movement not just in the US but globally. There constant talk of closing borders here and stopping certain groups from entering. There’s all sorts of debates about border closing in the United Kingdom and European Union and scapegoating ethnic and minority groups. It is also a reminder that the world is always looking and to be the best version of ourselves as scholars in the US. The lecture by Kevin Dougherty at Birkbeck College was insightful. It was a discussion of the UK and US higher education. There are a lot of similarities but plenty of differences though – like students get into their studies sooner (no general education courses) and funded primarily through loans. One thing that was the same in higher education in UK, like the US, has a highly stratified system based on race, gender and class. The disparities are among students and professors. (Here an article on that there are only 70 Black professors.) During the lecture, he explored the ways each system attempts to resolve this and how they can learn from each other. So after all the information on the education system in the UK and I’m left trying to process and wondering if either system will ever be the meritocracy it claims. Dr. Dougherty’s statement that the education system can’t be fixed without addressing social inequality, resonates. And asserts that if either system are to provide equal opportunity to every citizen, then it has adopt the slogan “totally equality or bust.” Because half measures only cover the problem and not solve it. An American Sociologist in London Day 6 - Navigating My Time at the Museum of London Docklands5/23/2016 Going through London can be a surreal, I am a stranger and occupy a unique position. In The Stranger George Simmel once wrote that this position creates both a closeness to other members to share and distance. There’s dichotomy to my existence here and the world seems to flash like a light switch being turned on and off. Click, click - click, click. Since I have been here, starting conversations with people has been pretty easy. My role of a stranger makes people want to share. Who hasn’t needed to share something with a stranger who you believe you will never see again. I have lol. I am able to observe, study, and understand the culture in a way that full time members can’t. Today, I traveled on the train to the Museum of London Docklands to visit its exhibit the London Sugar and Slavery. I was excited to see the exhibit and how London framed its role in the slave trade. I hoped it would be something that would blow me way and add to my knowledge base. In the museum, I walk up the wooden stairs the exhibit is on the 3rd floor of the museum. You have to pass through two exhibits to get to it. The way that they are positions, I am walking in a circle and I felt like I was walking to the back. It gave me a sense that the exhibit was seen as unimportant and insignificant (through this not be the case). I kinda smurked and thought, “that’s typical.” The exhibit covered the typical topics in slavery, initial enslavement, abolitionism, significant people but it was not highly detailed. It primarily focused on the sugar plantations in the Caribbean. I heard a couple people, say, “oh that’s sad.” I didn’t feel like the exhibition makes you sympathize with slavery though. Conversations about race here as minorities being label as racist as much as Whites. Understanding of race is separate from slavery and colonization and it has fragmented. I was the only dark skin person in the museum. (Well, I saw an Indian girl with White adults). I talked to some of the staff and they said not a lot of minorities visit the museum and they are trying to explore ways to attract more. It has become a familiar feeling traveling around London. As diverse as the population is, this diversity seem to transfer to institutions or restaurants (unlike it’s a specific ethnic restaurants in certain areas). There seems to binary way of understanding why this is. Obvious issues like segregation and economic disparities are not connected when people explain it.. I am left embracing my role as the stranger and contemplating the balanced between my cultural understanding and interpreting what I observe. I feel both close and distant to the society and my position has helped me continue to grow. It is said that a good traveler gets lost in the experience, that they embrace the journey and seize adventure. Over the past 5 days, I have seen and learned much but I haven’t had an adventure until… today. My adventure starts with a simple decision to visit the 101 Thai Kitchen, which was recommended to me by a friend before I left Baltimore. As I looked up the directions, I thought “that doesn’t look that far” I grabbed my coat and umbrella (because it always rains; why is the sky so sad lol). Once I got to the train station I found out that 4 trains and 2 walks awaited me. Didn’t bother me. I eagerly began my journey. Walking to the train, I heard a little girl say to her mom, “I am mad at you.” I smile as I am thinking about my sons when they were younger. These memories always bring a smile to my face. Waiting for the first train, there was a man and woman next to me kissing and rubbing. Nothing too explicit but consistent and passionate. I moved to the right slowly to get away and they laughed and moved with me. I blank stared forward, slightly widening my eyes. I look to see if someone else saw, but everyone was in their own world. Paintings plastered through the stations make some these stops visual pleasures. They display the soul of the city and tell the story of the people that ride: families sharing, connecting strangers, the never-ending metaphors of life, etc. It’s a treat. I arrived in Hammersmith and I paused as I am greeted by a grand theater. People are courteous in the area. Frequently, saying “please,” “excuse me,” and “cheers.” I think the niceness was due to the umbrella because it gave me that classic British gentlemen look lol. Walking through this area, I understand how Giddens and other scholars developed postmodern theory. It is vibrant and bustling and filled with beautiful artifacts. A cornucopia of different cultures seen through authentic Indian, Korean, Thai, Japanese, Persian, Chinese, and Vietnamese restaurants all populate the landscape with churches, buildings, and stores. People speaking various languages walking to and fro. But what are their stories? Do they tell their children that they can be prime minister? Do they attend adequate school or have citizenship rights? Do you have equal opportunities or options for economic advancement? Visually, this scene speaks of an ideal society. Looks great, but like in the United States what does it say really? It is easy to let this slice of life fool you into thinking that London is a pure pluralistic society. I begin to think about the idea of diversity, a word constantly among Western countries. Eric Fassin mentioned it yesterday when discussing race and France. Diversity takes the politics out issues and makes them seem like an unfortunate consequences and not a structural problem. I arrived at the 101 Thai Kitchen, walk in and knew I was at home when I saw this guy wearing sweats serving people food. The restaurant was filled and people were enjoying themselves. At that moment I had an epiphany. I have been in quite a few restaurants over the past 5 days and the population is always majority White. This is interesting despite the fact that the population is 44% Black or ethnic minority (click here). Though anecdotal, it does make me think about the intersection of race, class, gender and geography. On my way back at the train station, returning whence I have come, I see something that both disturbs and enlightens. There are four Black girls ranging from ages 6- 9 with their aunt who is quizzing them on their multiplication tables. Suddenly, one of the girls says, “look at me auntie.” They all rush to the pole and begin dancing up and down the pole saying, “I am shaking my bum.” The aunt tells them to get away from that pole and continues to ask math questions. Now, these were children and it was innocent, but it helped me understand how the stripper culture that has affected gender in the United States is also affecting it in the UK. As an American in the UK, I am taking steps not to be ethnocentric, but instead looking hard to see similarities between the two cultures. There are definite differences but just like the globalization of corporations like McDonalds and Burger King (which are seriously everywhere), factors like race and gender share global elements. So the adventure to 101 Thai Kitchen provided great understanding of race, gender, class and ethnicity. It reminds me that each day of one’s life is a journey and we have accept the lessons that are on it. Maybe the real adventure is being open and observant. 2 Random Comments It took about 2 hours to get the Hammersmith section of London by train and I later found out it would have only taken 20 minutes by car lol. Saw a car pull up and someone got out of what I thought was the driver side in mid traffic and momentarily freaked out lol Traditional phone booth in London. Reminiscent of the one used on the BBC show Doctor Who Over the last thing few days, I have had many conversations with lots of great Londoners. Hearing people’s stories not only weaves a web of understanding, it makes reflects on your life. I have been thinking about my place in London. I am a stranger in a foreigner land (like one of those dramatic indie films lol). I find myself looking up and around like Mary Tyler Moore (old school television reference- look it up lol).
I realized something to me as I traveled through this foreign land that my Ph.D. still gives me privilege here. I begin to think of it the show Dr. Who. Dr. Who is a BBC show and cult classic based on the journey of a Time Lord and his human partner traveling through time and space. They are travelling on a sentient space ship, TARDIS, helping people and saving civilization. The ship is disguised as a phone booth. Dr. Who regularly changes. The show's premise is that this is a life process of Time Lords through which the character of the Doctor takes on a new body and, to some extent, new personality, which occurs after sustaining an injury which would be fatal to most other species. It reminds of my privilege, but also made me realize that is not me but the Ph.D. that holds the power. Like Dr. Who the actor can change, and the power is with position. Who symbolizes that it can be any one. The real power is in the title. So me and the Ph. D., I went to the annual lecture sponsored by the journal Sociological Review to listen to a discussion of Claude Levi-Strauss and race and France by French sociologist Eric Fassin. I will discuss this at a later date after I process it more. It was alot to take it in. (Its like I went to Golden Corral and ate too much. I need a couple days lol). I am starting to get an idea of race in UK and Europe in general. At the wine reception after the lecture (I looked out of place drinking orange juice lol) I had a great discussion with Eric Fassin who provided insight on the French and race. I will talk about it later. So I am learning alot about race and gender ( which I am keeping secret for now lol) but also am examining my place. The dismembered arm of Amenhotep III, who ruled ruled Egypt 1390 1352 B.C., seen as you enter the British Museum. Day 3 I woke up this morning (Does noon count as morning?) and decided to go to the British Museum. It’s in a different part of the city, so I am excited to not only see the arts but another side of London. Every time I walk up the stairs to the tube, I feel like Alice through the looking glass: what new world awaits; where’s the Mad Hatter and the Cheshier Cat? lol. There’s something to the idea of not knowing what’s on the other side. It’s an excitement that the regular routine cannot match. Anyway, once I get there I’m pretty excited and do not know what I will see and experience. When I walked in, the museum was big and impressive. And I was curious. My mood changed though when at the entrance I was greeted by Egyptian artifacts. To most in this would, this is not be a big deal, but I have traveled to Egypt twice and have seen artifacts not in museums but in the original temples, burials, tombs etc. I know many Egyptians hated that Europeans took many of their sacred treasures while desecrating holy ground. Cultural appropriation and exploitation ran across my mind. I see the head and arm of Imhotep III. I have seen his body in Karnak. I think, "It doesn't belong here". I see people fist bumping his outstretched fist which is positioned in a weird way as you enter the museum (see above picture). Instead of being by the side of the head, its laid in a position that further symbolizes the fragmentation the Egyptian culture feels after European colonization. I see person after person fist bump the amputated arm and I think, “Its a "fist bump of privilege!" I began to look at the museum very differently. All these amazing pieces of art seem to scream at me to take them home. They belong in the land with their people. The British Museum has little British art in comparison. It’s mostly from other cultures from people of different beliefs. I began to think, "How can privileged people learn anything?" "Who benefits from museums like this?" One that houses a collection built not from friendship but dominance. Not from understanding but from spectacle. I walked through the museum and the exhibits were amazing, but they felt out of place. I walked into the India exhibit and got an eerie feeling. Like an unrested spirit was saying, “you better get out here.” Which I did immediately lol. I asked various people if they ever felt that feeling in the museum. All said “no.” I then thought about the story of the tomb of King Tut. (Here's a link) Where everyone that disturbed the tomb which was supposed to be cursed, died mysteriously within 5 months. Or the movie poltergeist. There’s so much capitalism associated with artifacts. Rubber ducks in Pharaoh head dress, Ahura Mazda on bags, mini Nefertiti heads. I'm not buying replica Egyptian artifacts in Britain! I will in Egypt . Or replica Assyrian soldiers outside the area outside of the Iran or Iraq. I don’t care if they are made by the same company lol. Its principle. It reminded me of George Ritzer's idea that consumption is the new religion and these cathedrals of consumption (like this) are built on replicating the enchantment of established institutions like churches. Malls, cruise ships, amazement parks and definitely grand museums all use familiar enchantment sell grandiose ideas. I think of the functionalist idea of poverty, One of the functions of the poor is remind the privilege how good they got it. I felt like all grand museums that house stolen appropriated artifacts do is reaffirm the people of the privileged nation. It does not make them more aware of their history or get a better understanding of different culture. The art in this context furthers ethnocentrism and reinforces dominant positions. Random comments from the day: When I am in the store, I get treated like a 6 year old because I am not familiar with currency and they often point and grab the amount needed to pay. lol People in Baltimore would love these small streets. They are jaywalkable lol. Today was my first day venturing into London and I started it like I have started most of my class days this semester – by waking up and saying "Crap I'm late!" The lecture started at 1 pm but it was 12:15 pm and I had to catch 4 trains. My body is still on Eastern time and my normal bedtime is at 3 am which is 8 am here. So all that Orange is the New Black and Daredevil on Netflix kept me up lol. Needless to say, a shower was out of the question (hey don't judge me, I was in rush :-)). So I got dressed, brushed my teeth and hit the door. It was cool and raining, so I squeezed on a puncho I got from Niagara Falls over my jacket and backpack. It looked quite ridiculous. With that red sweater I had on, I expected to be mistaken for a Twisler, or even the Kool Aid man or perhaps a box or red hots from my child hood lol. I arrived at the lecture – happening at the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), a branch of the University of London, hosted by the Center of Gender Studies – about 30 minutes late with an excuse loaded. If asked, I would blame it on my not knowing London. The lecture was on queer dalit movement in India and its intersection with the law. There's a lot to learn but the primary thing is that caste continues to be an important factor in the lives of many people in India. Though in many places it’s supposed to be antiquated, indicators like name and geographic region continue to affect their life circumstances. Like in the United States, causes often champion the needs of the privilege and the lower class issues are not discussed. The LGBT movement in India often ignores the needs of its lower caste members. While listening to the lecture, I saw the influence of American writers both good and bad. The ideological influences of movements in the United States could be seen in the presenters’ rhetoric and ideas. You could also see the Ethnocentrism in American and Western thought attempting to research queer movement. The speaker particularly mentions a book, Less than Gay, as a particular terrible representation of Indian LGBT community by American scholars. After it was over, I met some people and set up some meetings and walked in to Russell Square. It's a famous area in Central London with lots to see. I walked out and just observed. I took my sketchpad out, looked, and drew a couple artifacts to help me connect the experience. While walking around, I saw an area that looked both familiar and different. The streets are narrow, there's hostels, hotels, cafes and sight-seeing double decker buses everywhere. I marveled at the people and old architecture. It’s quite a pleasure. I did have an uncomfortable experience though when I walked into a cafe with only middle class white men in suits in there. Really. There were no women or dark persons; they all looked at me like I had walked in an episode of Friends. I quickly backed out and kept it moving. After the second day, I am settling in to the idea that my nationality is my master status. Every time, I leave the United Sates it’s an interesting experience that being an American is more important than my class, race, or education. I am a representative of the US and it feels weird to critique it the way I do here. I feel sort of like I am talking about a member of my family (a crazy uncle who drinks and dances too much at family reunions). But I digress, after all the years in school, if feels good to learn just for learning sake – without tests and professors’ deadlines. I am just taking my time, learning and growing. Today, I am starting a 17 day blog about my experiences in London, while exploring racial and gender dynamics in the England. I plan on hearing lectures, attending archives, meeting with people, seeing the sites and soaking up the cultural environment.
My trip to England began by saying goodbye to my partner and our 3 sons. It’s a mix of missing them and excitement that I feel as I arrive at BWI airport. The airport and flights were pleasant and uneventful and I even ran into LeSean McCoy during my layover at the Detroit airport. As I arrive in London, I am greeted by a very diverse group of people, much like the big cities in the United States. I did find myself just looking around at the city and thinking, “this is where the foundation of many of our ideas are from.” It was like traveling to the nexus of the ideological universe, to this black hole of knowledge. I am hoping I don't get crushed :-) On the surface, much of London is familiar to the United States and this can give a person the sense of sameness or oneness, but I was reminded soon after I arrive that there are differences. People began commenting on my accent. Now, of course, there is an American accent, but actually being in a place where my language accent was viewed as the outsider was an interesting perspective. Now people understand me fine, but at times I do have to speak slower and make sure that I enunciate. It was a strange sensation though, because I am usually traveling to countries with entirely different cultures and languages, so being a stranger there is expected. Here, it’s expectation feels somehow more isolating... On the train leaving the airport, I noticed that the people who got on the train at the first of my three-stop journey were mostly people who were Middle Eastern or South Asian Indians. I wondered if they were there enclaves in London or were these the "Middle Eastern sections" of London. I saw building with writing in Arabic. Children happily played on the train while speaking Arabic and I smiled with joy as they pointed straws at each other. I begin to think about residential segregation and white flight and wondered if these sections were a result of it. Once I arrived at the final train station after about 3 transfers, I walked into the neighborhood where I would call home for the next three weeks. It looked different than what I was used to. The houses are a cross between the row houses of Baltimore and brownstones of New York (refer to the picture at the top of the page). The distinctive chimneys made me think of the movie Mary Poppins, particularly the scene where Dick van Dyke is jumping in and out of chimneys cleaning them and singing, Chim chiminey Chim chiminey Chim chim cher-ee! A sweep is as lucky As lucky can be Once I arrived at the home I am staying, I pretty much napped the rest of the day. (I have a new born at home so uninterrupted sleep here I come - lol). Tomorrow is the first lecture that I am attending, so my real exploration of London and its racial and gender dynamics will begin! |
Myron Strong
professor. learner. traveler. emerging artist Archives
November 2018
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